Cabbage and Fennel Slaw

I bought an adorable baseball-sized cabbage recently at a farmers' market, as well as some lovely purple scallions. The vendor I spoke with told me she'd made stuffed cabbage rolls the day before, which I adore (and haven't made in ages). But I didn't need any recommendations or ideas, because I already knew what I would make with my purchase: cole slaw.

Most people are very particular about their cole slaw, and most seem to prefer the creamy variety. I am happy to eat large quantities of that; but if given a choice, I'd rather this simple, vinegary variety. It's light, and it has no mayonnaise which would spoil if taken to a picnic or a barbecue.

Those who have lived in the Detroit area for long enough (like lil' ol' moi, who moved here in August, 1978) remember the Susie Q restaurant that used to be on Woodward north of 12 Mile. They were noted for their fish and chips, and also for their cole slaw which featured a vinegar-based, rather than a creamy, dressing.

I remember loving it immediately upon tasting it, and my friend Michele also has excellent memories of it. She even agreed, upon trying this slaw once, that it wasn't exactly the same but was remarkably close to the Susie Q's version. And I wasn't even trying to replicate the recipe! It was just bashert [bah-SHAYRT]: "destiny," in Hebrew.

If you remember the Susie Q and want to indulge in a taste memory; or if you just want a great salad to accompany virtually any main dish, this is the recipe you want to make with your farmers' market or garden bounty. It's not too tart, and the flavors are bright and refreshing. It's an ideal summery side dish!



Cabbage and Fennel Slaw

1 small cabbage (the size of a baseball)
3 large scallions (purple, if possible)
1 small head fennel, fronds removed
1/8 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tablespoon sugar

Cut cabbage in half and cut out the core; slice very thinly across the core, and place the slices into a large mixing bowl.

Trim half of the green ends of the scallions, and chop very thin; add to the cabbage.

Cut the fennel in half vertically, then slice each half very thinly; add to the cabbage.

Combine the oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and sugar; mix thoroughly, then pour over the cabbage. Stir to coat the cabbage with the dressing, place into a covered storage container and refrigerate for at least one hour (the longer, the better).