French Apple Tart

For Jeremy's recent birthday, Craig very sweetly gave a gift not only to Jeremy but also to me, since I played just a bit part in the reason for the festivities ... :)

He gave me a cookbook - one of my very favorite things, of course! Simca's Cuisine was written by Simone "Simca" Beck, who co-wrote Mastering the Art of French Cooking with the beloved Julia Child. The book "gives us her own cuisine in delectable recipes ... arranged in menus for every occasion."

I selected a recipe from the section entitled "Un Diner à la Compagne" [uh dee-NAY ah lah cohm-PAHN-yuh] - A Dinner in the Country. The apple-almond tart Simca recommended serving for dessert was perfect for my Tu B'Shevat [TOO bay sheh-VAHT] dinner, celebrating the Jewish New Year of the Trees.

Trees are very important in Judaism, as is tikkun olam [tee-KOON oh-LAHM], which is "repairing the world." Rabbi Yochanan ben Zakkai even taught the following lesson: "If you have a sapling in your hand and someone tells you the Messiah has arrived, first plant the sapling and then go out to welcome the Messiah." Planting trees is a means to providing food, shelter, and many other benefits to both current and - especially - future generations.

And so, on the 15th day of the month of Shevat (on the Hebrew calendar), it is customary to eat fruits, particularly those which come from trees. Many people partake of a seder, a formal celebration, in which ritual foods are eaten; these include fruits with an inedible shell, those with an inedible inner pit, and fruits with no shell and no pit.

Thus, this beautiful French tart with almonds, apricots, and raisins, as well as apples, combines traditional representative foods in one lovely, sweet, delicious dessert. It was perfect for the holiday, and would be ideal at any time that a simple but sophisticated dessert is needed.

On a completely unrelated note: in the past I've mentioned my fixation upon the Bocuse d'Or, the bi-annual culinary "Olympics" which took place in France last week. Here are the final results, for those who weren't parked in front of their computer screens obsessively watching the streaming presentation of meat and fish platters while sipping their morning coffee before work!

Best Promotion: Guatemala
Best Poster: Hungary
Best Commis ([coh-MEE] = assistant): Kristian Curtis, United Kingdom
Best Fish Platter: Norway
Best Meat Platter: United Kingdom
Bronze: Japan (the commis was in tears ... it was so sweet!)
Silver: Denmark (gold medalists in 2011)
Gold: France (they almost feel it's their birthright to win this, so they're very happy!)


French Apple Tart
(slightly adapted from a recipe in Simca's Cuisine by Simone "Simca" Beck)

Crust:

• 1-1/4 cups unbleached all purpose flour
• 1/8 cup brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/8 cup butter, at room temperature
• 1/8 cup shortening, at room temperature
• 2-3 tablespoons (or more) ice water

Preheat oven to 350F.

In a large mixing bowl, combine flour, brown sugar, and salt. With a fork, mix in butter and shortening until mixture resembles meal. Stir in 2 tablespoons water with the fork, until the dough starts to form a ball. Add water by the tablespoon if more is needed. Form into a ball, cover in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Filling:

• 1/3 cup Solo Apricot pastry filling
• 2 eggs
• 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/2 cup sugar
• pinch of kosher salt
• 1/2 cup whole almonds, ground fine
• 1/3 cup raisins
• 2 large Honeycrisp apples, peeled, cored, grated
• 4 tablespoons butter, melted
• ice cream, for serving (either vanilla or rum raisin would be ideal)

Roll dough out into a 12" circle and place into a 9" tart pan with a removable bottom (or into a 9" pie pan). Press dough into the bottom of the pan and up against the sides, then trim dough even with edge of pan. Spread apricot filling over bottom of crust, then refrigerate while making filling.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, cinnamon, sugar, and salt. Stir in the ground almonds and the raisins. Stir in the grated apples, then pour filling into the prepared crust.

Place the tart pan onto a larger baking sheet, to catch drips, then bake for 20 minutes.

Prick the tart all over with a fork, then pour butter over the top of the tart and let it seep into the filling. Raise oven temperature to 375F, then bake for 15 more minutes until tart is golden and set.

Let cool completely, then remove rim from tart pan. Place tart onto a platter and serve with ice cream.

Makes 12 servings.

 
Tomorrow, by the way, is World Nutella Day - yay!!! So here are some recipes to choose from, for your celebration:

Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love Tart

Peanut Butter Pancakes with Nutella Sauce

Banana Nutella Cake with Coffee Glaze

Krispy Kreme Peanut Butter Dream Sandwich

Chocolate Cake with Nutella Buttercream Frosting

Julia Child's Best Brownies

For Julia Child's 100th birthday on August 15, I celebrated by bringing a batch of brownies to work, having made them with one of Julia's recipes.

The method is a bit more involved than simply "dump 'n' stir," but none of the prep is difficult. And I am here to tell you that every single step is absolutely worth it. I've made some exceptional brownies before - my Hot Damn! Triple Orange Brownies, in particular. But I've gotta say that these may very well be my new all-time favorites.

One of my co-workers declared these "the best brownies ever"; another proclaimed them "divine." I can't argue with either assessment - these are unbelievably rich, decadent, seductive, so wrong and yet so, so right. Of course, with 2 cups of sugar, nearly half-a-pound of chocolate, and a full cup of butter, what do you expect??? They'll kill you, but you'll die blissfully and ecstatically happy!

After mixing everything together and pouring the batter into the pan, I set the timer for the recommended 23 minutes. When the bell rang, I inserted a knife into the center to test for done-ness. The recipe stated that "they'll be perfect if they're just barely set and still pretty gooey." Well, the brownie mass jiggled when I shook the pan a bit, and the center was like chocolate pudding - far beyond gooey, and still raw.

So I set the timer for another 5 minutes, only to find little progress.

I set the timer for another 15 minutes, in a fit of impatience and knowing that the brownies were still far from where they needed to be.  Only after that much more baking did I find the perfectly gooey center. So be sure to start with the minimum baking time, but don't worry if it takes longer.


There is no occasion where brownies would be unwelcome - be "Employee of the Month" by bringing them to work, make picnics and barbecues more festive, devour them at a "girls' night in" while watching a movie, serve them after a romantic dinner ... any time, any place, these are perfection. You know you'll want them for Saturday's season opener, The Cowboys Classic, when my #8 Michigan Wolverines take on the #2 Alabama Crimson Tide!

Makes these brownies. I'm serious! Do it now ... you'll thank me for being so insistent, I promise ... :)


Julia Child's Best Brownies
(very slightly adapted)

• 8 ounces butter, softened
• 4 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
• 2 ounces milk chocolate chips
• 2 cups sugar, divided
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 4 large eggs
• 1-1/2 cups flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat oven to 350F. Line a 9"x9" baking pan with foil, letting some hang over the edges for easier lifting, and grease the foil.

Melt the butter and chocolates together in a small saucepan over very low heat, stirring constantly. Add 1 cup of the sugar, cook for 30 more seconds, then remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Pour mixture into a large mixing bowl.

Place remaining 1 cup sugar and the eggs into a medium mixing bowl; mix just to combine.

Little by little, pour half of the egg mixture into the chocolate; whisk after each addition to combine thoroughly.

Using an electric mixer, beat the remaining egg-sugar mixture on "high" for 3 minutes; the mixture will become much lighter in color and thicker. Fold this mixture into the chocolate.

Add flour and salt; fold into batter until completely incorporated. Pour batter into pan and bake for 23 minutes; check with a knife to see if center is mostly set and gooey. If too wet, continue cooking in 5 minute increments.

When brownies are done, remove from the oven and let cool completely. Remove from the pan using the foil, peel down the sides of the foil, and trim 1/4" from edges. Cut into 4 columns, then turn brownies and cut into 4 more columns.

Makes 16 brownies.

Note: You could add nuts to the brownies if you want to. But they're so dense and so fudgy that nuts could almost be disruptive - crunchiness that interrupts the bite, and which requires chewing rather than just letting the brownies dissolve on your tongue.

Julia Child Week: Mustard-Herb Baked Chicken

Today's Julia Child tribute is more in keeping with what most people associate with her style, thanks to a generous helping of butter. But really, not that much butter! Most of the flavor in this amazing dish actually comes from a sauce that's brushed onto the chicken, coupled with crisp, toasty bread crumbs.

Poulets Grillés à la Diable [pooh-LAY gree-YAY ah lah dee-AH-bluh] - Chicken Grilled in the Style of the Devil, with a good dose of zest - is a truly fabulous dish!  It smells so amazing while it bakes, and meets every tidbit of anticipation by tasting just as exceptional as you expect it to after you've been tormented by the tempting aroma.

This dish is sublime when it's served hot from the oven; but it's just as delicious served cold, for a light supper or a picnic ... or, in my case, a breakfast of beloved leftovers. Mustard, green onions, and herbs all work together to provide a complex, vibrant flavor while the chicken remains consummate comfort food despite its sophistication.

Gotta love Julia Child, and the French!





Poulets Grilles à la Diable (Mustard-Herb Chicken)
(slightly adapted from Julia Child's recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I)

• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 2-1/2 pounds chicken thighs
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• pinch of freshly ground black pepper
• pinch of cayenne pepper
• 2 tablespoons minced green onion
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs (I used basil and parsley; tarragon would be lovely)
• 3 cups fresh white bread crumbs

Preheat oven to 450F. Grease a 9"x13" casserole dish.

In a small saucepan, melt together butter and oil; brush onto chicken, then place chicken skin-side down into the prepared dish. Bake for 10 minutes per side, basting every 5 minutes. Sprinkle with salt.

In a small bowl, combine mustard, peppers, green onion, and herbs; mix with 2 tablespoons basting juices to make a sauce with a mayonnaise-like consistency. Schmear the mustard sauce onto the chicken skin.

Place the bread crumbs onto a plate and roll chicken in them. Place chicken back into the baking dish, skin-side up, and bake for 10 more minutes, until juices run clear when chicken is pierced.

Serves 6 ... well, really 2-3 'cause everyone will want seconds.

Julia Child's 100th Birthday Picnic

This past Sunday, Jeremy and I attended a fabulous picnic hosted by the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor - a group I've recently joined which is devoted to all things food-related. Because today would have been Julia Child's 100th birthday, of course the potluck celebration featured an entire buffet of Julia's recipes, prepared by members!

Among two dozen offerings, there was a gorgeous terrine of veal and pork ... a luscious dish of chicken in wine ... an old-fashioned American meatloaf ... a French potato salad dressed with vinaigrette ... lovely cucumber and corn and Cobb salads ... beautiful hand made cherry and apple pies ... delicate blue cheese crackers ... refreshing cucumber soup ... tender rice ... summery ratatouille ... my chocolate mousse (recipe on AnnArbor.com today) ... and the extraordinary apricot-praline cake pictured above (baked by Sherry Sunderling).

I don't have names and/or titles to go with every dish, but was astounded by the quality and variety of offerings. Everything was so amazing! Fabulous friends and food ... what better way to celebrate a birthday? Julia Child herself would have been thrilled.

Bon appétit! Et bon anniversaire, Julia!

[bohn ah-pay-TEE! ay bohn ah-nee-vair-SAIR]

Go check 'em out on AnnArbor.com:
Yesterday: Courgettes Sautées au Beurre ([koor-ZHET soh-TAY oh burr] = Zucchini Sautéed in Butter)
Today: Chocolate Mousse

A fragrant Julia Child rose in front of a cut-out - the guest of honor had to attend, after all!

Julia Child Week: Onion Tart with Anchovies and Black Olives

It's Julia Child Week! Wednesday would have been Julia's 100th birthday, so there have been many tributes: special dinners at restaurants around the country, a lovely new children's book about Julia and her cat in Paris, a panel nominating her top 100 recipes, a picnic I enjoyed yesterday (which will be Wednesday's features here and on AnnArbor.com) ... oh, the festivities! Oh, the food!

I remember watching "The French Chef" with my mother many moons ago; I'd be eating my pb&j, watching as this charming woman made lovely dishes and made us all feel that we could tackle each of these steps, as well. With Julia, cooking elaborate and sophisticated meals wasn't intimidating ... it was fun!

So this week, I'm featuring a variety of Julia's recipes. I looked over the list of the top 100, but many of them were too rich and heavy for hot August days, or they would require specialized equipment or techniques. And I've written posts about lighter dishes - such as souffles and cream puffs and potato salad with vinaigrette - already, so I wanted to offer new items.

So - dedicated soul that I am! - I perused cookbooks to find recipes that struck my fancy, that were easy to make, that were flavorful, that were summery, and that were representative of Julia Child herself: at their essence, a few simple ingredients that shone when prepared properly.

Today's offering is a simple tart, which looks very contemporary - bruschetta-like, reminiscent of foccaccia. And yet, it comes from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I, which was originally published in 1961. The classics will always be perfect and timeless ... just like Julia Child herself.





Pissaladière Niçoise (Onion Tart with Anchovies and Black Olives) [pee-sah-lah-DEEAYR nee-SWAHZ]

(adapted from Julia Child's recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I)

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 3 basil leaves, minced
• 2 tablespoons minced parsley
• 1 large garlic clove, minced
• 1 8" piece naan (or other prepared flatbread)
• 8 anchovy fillets, drained of oil
• 8 Kalamata olives, halved lengthwise
• 1/4 cup finely shredded Parmesan cheese

In a small skillet, heat oil over very low heat.  Add onion, basil, parsley, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes until onion is tender and caramelized.

Preheat oven to 400F.

Place the flatbread onto a baking sheet; arrange the anchovies and olives decoratively on top.

Sprinkle cheese over the flatbread.  Bake for 10-15 minutes until cheese has started to melt and tart is heated through.

Cut into 4-6 pieces and serve immediately.

(Feel free to leave off the anchovies and substitute a few more olives, if desired.  But they really marry well with the olives - strong flavors working together to enhance the whole ....)

Minette's Feast: The Delicious Story of Julia Child and Her Cat

Let the countdown begin!

No, we're not counting down 'til the Ann Arbor Art Fair.  Nope, not 'til the students return in the fall, and not even 'til the end of the Mayan calendar.  Uh uh.  But a festive occasion deserving of celebration is coming in 30 days, on August 15, 2012:

Julia Child's 100th birthday!

Julia Child was devoted to an appreciation of good food in an age when convenience items were all the rage.  She taught that cooking could be fun and even easy - yes, easy, although she was noted for complicated and lengthy recipes - because she provided such explicit instructions and sincere encouragement both in her cookbooks and in her visual demonstrations on television shows.  (And remember, this was decades before Emeril Lagasse said that cooking is "not rocket science" on a network that would not exist without Julia's having blazed the food t.v. trail).

Despite not having taken cooking seriously until she attended culinary school in her mid-30s, Julia became an exceptionally accomplished cook and instructor.  She showed us that we, too, could grow up to be anyone we chose to be, at whatever age we decided what that might be.

And so, the festivities in honor of this amazing and beloved woman - she who made such an impact upon us all - have been, and will be, numerous and varied.  But one tribute is particularly lovely.

A charming new children's book Minette's Feast: The Delicious Story of Julia Child and Her Cat, by award-winning author Susanna Reich - has recently been published, telling the story of Julia, her husband Paul, and "perhaps the luckiest cat in all of Paris" who lived with the couple. The book has been beautifully illustrated by Amy Bates, and shows clearly the love shared by Julia and Paul (a famous romance!), the beauty of Paris and the quaintness of its cafes and shops, and especially the grace and uniquely fluid movements of cats.

Minette Mimosa McWilliams Child was "a mischievous, energetic poussiequette with a lovely speckled coat" who enjoyed chasing birds and mice while "Julia spent mornings at the marketplace, buying meat from le boucher, bread from le boulanger, milk and cheese from la cremiere, and cake from le patissier."  As Julia develops a love for French food and begins to take cooking classes at Le Cordon Bleu, Minette still seems to prefer her own catches to the exceptional cuisine offered in the household.  The books asks: "Will Julia ever be able to whip up a meal that will entice Minette?"

It is great fun to follow along as Julia cooks and Minette hunts.  And the book even includes quotes taken directly from some of Julia's own letters, making her that much more real and human rather than the icon that we're all so familiar with.

Julia Child invited all of us into her kitchen, and we subsequently invited her into our hearts.  Please join me in celebrating her ... and Minette!  Truly, you will love this very sweet story.

(Note: I was sent a review copy of the book.  And as a fan of Julia's, of cats, of France, and of food, I couldn't help but smile as I read it.)

Remembering Julia Child with the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor

I've just joined a group I should have belonged to ages ago: the Culinary Historians of Ann Arbor.  Long on my "to do" list, real life just kept getting in the way.  I was often unable to attend monthly meetings, and I could read the newsletter online.  And so, procrastination and inertia ruled ... I never got around to connecting with these wonderful people who share my passion - to degrees that others sometimes consider to be overly zealous (a polite way of saying "boring!") - for all things food-related.

But this is my year to reach out, to try new things, to accomplish goals, to meet new people, to move beyond my comfort zone, and to have excellent adventures.

So, I'm now a dues-paying member of the group and attended my first meeting recently!

Jan and Dan Longone, esteemed and revered in the food world for their knowledge of antiquarian cookbooks and wine (among many other talents and gifts), presented their personal remembrances of their dear friend Julia Child.  I had met Jan just a few days earlier, while doing research, and she has graciously offered to continue working with me as I delve into my work.  She personally invited me to attend this meeting and to join the group ... how could I refuse such a welcome???  The right moment had come.

I grew up watching "The French Chef" with my mother.  And when the Smithsonian Institution opened a permanent exhibit of Julia's kitchen in 2002, Jeremy was inordinately patient as I stood gawking, remembering, reminiscing, and just communing with the famous space that had been completely rebuilt at the museum. So if my first meeting with the Culinary Historians was one dedicated to Julia Child, this was most fitting!

Julia - at the meeting, everyone referred to her by her first name alone, as though we were all personal friends despite most of us having had no relationship other than holding her dear in our hearts - was represented by a cutout (pictured above) that one of the group's members had acquired many years ago.  She brings Julia out for special occasions, like this meeting that paid such loving tribute.

Dan and Jan both spoke with such love for Julia, and told wonderful stories about her.  Julia Child was truly an icon, and yet was so generous of spirit and "a lady," according to Jan.  Despite being very famous, she would introduce herself to groups rather than waiting for them to approach her worshipfully or expecting that they already knew who she was; she identified herself by name in greeting new people.  Julia also wrote "thank you" letters - a lost art these days - personally offering gratitude for gifts or work on her behalf ... she showed appreciation for any and all kind gestures.

Julia even maintained a listed phone number, of all things!  And if someone called her directly with questions about recipes, particularly on holidays like Thanksgiving (before the days of the Butterball hotline), she would answer patiently with genuine and sincere concern.

One interesting quirk that Jan told us about is that Julia didn't like to share dishes; instead, she felt you should simply order something yourself if you wanted to try it.  And she gently chastised Jan at one point, when Jan felt she was too busy to sit on the board of the then-forming American Institute of Wine and Food; Julia pointed out that she, herself, was busy, but that this was a cause worth dedicating the time to.  Needless to say, they both became board members!

At the end of her life, Julia wasn't able to eat much.  But someone made a batch of onion soup from Julia's own recipe, to encourage her to eat.  According to Jan, this turned out to be Julia's last meal.

Julia was so wonderful, so haymish (a Yiddish word meaning "warm, welcoming") that everyone loved her.  In fact, Jan noted that not liking Julia Child was "like not liking ice cream or chocolate!"

Lovely desserts were also brought in Julia's honor, prepared by group members from recipes in Julia's Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Malakoff Tortes with either strawberries or raspberries, as well as a Queen of Sheba cake made with lots of chocolate, butter and rum ... a perfect way to remember Julia and her fondness for such rich ingredients!

The Culinary Historians take the summer off from meeting, but then gather in August for an annual picnic - the theme of which will be a celebration of Julia Child's 100th birthday, featuring a potluck filled with dishes prepared from Julia's own recipes - before another year of monthly programs.

My heart will still be with them, though, as I prepare an article for the group's quarterly newsletter, Repast, about The Molly Goldberg Cookbook. I was even able to finally meet Randy Schwartz, Repast's esteemed editor, with whom I've been corresponding for a few months.

This was a lovely afternoon in so many ways!

Baked Chicken with Morels and Leeks

Morel mushrooms are prized for their deep, rich taste; their appearance in specialty markets is practically an announcement in Michigan that "Spring is here!"

So when I found some available recently, I bought a few.  Just a few - they cost $50 per pound!  But for a couple of judiciously-spent dollars, it's possible to splurge a bit on an extraordinary flavor accent.

I found some beautiful chicken thighs on sale, and I had some leeks and a splash of half-and-half loitering in my refrigerator; these inexpensive and ready ingredients combined with the few morels to make a simple but delicious dish.

The chicken, having baked in cream, is fork-tender.  The sauce is luscious, and lets the leeks and the morels shine without either one overpowering any other ingredient.

This would be fabulous for brunch or for a simple weekend meal; it's ideal to serve for a romantic evening.  Enjoy this truly delicious meal, and feel as though you're indulging in luxury.

Baked Chicken with Morels and Leeks

• 3 tablespoons butter, divided
• 1 8" length of leek, ends trimmed. halved lengthwise, sliced thin
• 4 large morel mushrooms, finely chopped
• 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup half-and-half
• 6 chicken thighs

Preheat oven to 375F.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add leeks and cook for 2 minutes, until softened.  Add morels, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper; cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add half-and-half; cook for 2 minutes.

Melt remaining tablespoon of butter in a large skillet.  Season chicken with remaining salt, then cook for 5 minutes per side until golden brown.  Place chicken into a baking dish and top with cream sauce.  Bake for 35 minutes until chicken is tender and sauce is bubbling.

Serve with rice, pasta or potatoes to soak up the creamy sauce.  Serves 4-6.

(With many thanks to my friend and ex-sister-in-law Marjie for the beautiful blue ceramic trivet under the dish of chicken, which references the Dione Lucas Gourmet Cooking School Cookbook.  Dione Lucas was a predecessor to, and influence upon, Julia Child; she was the first female graduate of Le Cordon Bleu and the first woman to be featured in a cooking show on television.)