Showing posts with label James Beard Award. Show all posts
Showing posts with label James Beard Award. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Max Sussman and Eli Sussman Coming to Williams-Sonoma


(If you missed it on AnnArbor.com yesterday, here's a post you need to see! Fabulous food, great event ... join me there, if you're in town!)


There's more to life than football. Even in Ann Arbor, even when we're talking about the upcoming Ohio State game, there's more to life than football. Really, there is!

There's food. And I don't just mean tailgating food, although that's very important. I'm referring to food prepared by two of the most talked-about chefs in New York City, who are making their home state of Michigan very proud.

In my obsessive little world, chefs are the rock stars. And two of the hottest acts right now are Max Sussman and his brother Eli, who live and work in Brooklyn but who will be offering a cooking demonstration at Briarwood's Williams-Sonoma store at 3 p.m. on Saturday. They'll also be signing copies of This is a Cookbook: Recipes for Real Life, which has just been published. How can you not love a book written, as they phrase it themselves, "by 2 guys who like to eat"?

Eli cooks at the Mile-End Deli, and is also the marketing director for Taste of the Nation NYC, an event that benefits the exceptional charity Share Our Strength, which fights hunger and particularly promotes feeding children. Max is a chef at Roberta's, the very trendy pizzeria that has received 2 stars from The New York Times; and he was a semifinalist for this year's James Beard Foundation Awards, on the radar for Rising Star Chef of the Year. Both brothers made Zagat's 2012 "30 Under 30: NYC's Hottest Up-and-Comers" list of food professionals to watch.

The Sussman brothers are passionate about excellent, but not pretentious, food. Their cookbook offers recipes for everything from dishes to impress your girlfriend when you first cook dinner for her to midnight snacks after a long night with friends (or, in their cases, at work). And there is a recipe for a Chocolate-Peanut Butter Pie that only requires baking a graham cracker crust, while the filling is merely mixed, poured, and refrigerated. "If you're capable of reading this cookbook, you are capable of making this dessert look as insanely good as the picture."

Max and Eli's philosophy is simple, as they noted in an interview with The New York Times:

“For us, it’s not about a concept, it’s about making stuff that people are going to enjoy eating,” Max said. “We wanted the recipes to be immediately useful.”

Eli said: “It sounds a bit obvious, but we really wanted it to be a cookbook — like a cooking book. It’s not a coffee-table book. If this book just sits on people’s coffee tables, it’s basically a failure.”

The Bacon 'n' Blue Cheese Pizza featured below - found in a section that berates people for relying upon the sacrilege that is frozen pizza - would be an exceptional offering for today's tailgating feast. Go Blue, after all! Jeremy and I adore both blue cheese and bacon, so this was absolutely our first choice when selecting a recipe to try from the Sussmans' cookbook. My boyfriend Craig is not a fan of blue cheese, however he did promise to at least try it; almost anything is improved with bacon, after all, and pizza is probably his favorite food.

Well, I used a different crust recipe than the one in the book because I'd committed a cardinal sin of cooking: I'd failed to read Max and Eli's recipe ahead of time, and didn't have the necessary 1-2 hours available to let their dough rise. But I quickly buzzed their sauce around in the blender, and followed their recommendations for the toppings.

"Ooh"s and "Ahh"s, and much anticipation, preceded the first bites. And I'm here to tell you that this was one fabulously amazing creation! In fact, of the 12 slices of pizza I offered for dinner on the night I served this, I was granted only two; the rest was devoured by my two dining companions ... even by the one who didn't previously like blue cheese.

So, you should come with me to see Max and Eli at Williams-Sonoma this Saturday. They know how to cook, and they want to show you how easy it is and how much fun it can be.

You can watch endless replays of the game later on. But how many opportunities will you have for these two handsome, charming guys to feed you?

Max Sussman and Eli Sussman Book Signing and Cooking Demonstration
Saturday, November 24 at 3:00 p.m.
Williams-Sonoma
808 Briarwood Circle, Ann Arbor





Bacon 'n' Blue Cheese Pizza

Crust:
  • 1 packet quick-rise yeast
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 cup warm water
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 3 cups flour

In a large bowl, combine yeast, sugar and water; let proof for 5 minutes. Stir in salt and flour. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and then a dish towel; place in a warm place to let rise for 30 minutes.

Sauce:
  • 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained
  • 2 large garlic cloves
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Place all ingredients into a blender; puree until smooth.

Pizza:
  • cornmeal
  • 1 pound bacon, cut into 1" pieces
  • 8 ounces Mozzarella, shredded
  • 2/3 cup shredded Parmesan
  • 6 ounces crumbled blue cheese

Preheat oven to 425F. Sprinkle a bit of cornmeal onto the bottom of a 15"x10" baking sheet.

Cook the bacon in a skillet until crisp; drain on paper towels.

Punch down the pizza dough. Place onto the prepared baking sheet and carefully stretch the dough to the edges of the baking sheet. Spread some of the sauce over the dough, reserving the rest for another purpose. Sprinkle Mozzarella and Parmesan over the top.

Sprinkle bacon and blue cheese over the top of the pizza. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until cheese is bubbling and crust is crisp. Let rest for 5 minutes before cutting into slices.

Makes 12 generous slices.

Thursday, September 27, 2012

CRUSH Birmingham 2012 - A Recap

Craig Rochkind, Paul Kittle, and Gina Kittle enjoying the CRUSH Birmingham fundraiser with me

On Saturday night, I attended the fabulous CRUSH Birmingham fundraiser to support The Children's Leukemia Foundation of Michigan. So much amazing food! Such lovely wines! So many talented chefs! Such a great time ... :)

Craig and I schmoozed with the folks from The Root Restaurant, who'd made the stellar bacon-crusted caramel apples from Baconfest this past summer; we're hoping to meet up again next year to see what they create with the almighty pig. At CRUSH, they served a lovely, crisp-on-the-outside and tender-on-the-inside pork belly that is one of the contenders for my favorite dish. You already know that indecision is one of my hallmarks; there was so much unbelievably delicious food, how could I choose just one item??? Craig's favorite - he being far more decisive in this area than I am - was the pasta with grilled octopus served by Myles Anton of Trattoria Stella in Traverse City. I just relished being able to eat my way through the party.

We chatted with James Beard Award semifinalist Matt Millar of Reserve, who has redeemed venison for me with his amazingly tender ragout. I'd only eaten venison once, decades ago, and found it gamey once I got past the stench of its cooking. But Matt's stew was succulent and addictive, and gives me even more incentive to make a road trip across the state some time, just for a spectacular dinner.

We also had a lovely opportunity to talk with Luciano Del Signore, another Beard Award semifinalist, who thrilled me by recognizing my blog name when I handed him a card. I'd written up his fabulous Pizzeria Biga this summer, he'd tweeted "mille grazie," I'd swooned .... (In my little food-obsessed world, remember, chefs are the rock stars!) He served a gorgeous vegan pepper and quinoa dish, and told us that Italians have been eating this way for centuries; but give the cuisine a new name, and magically it becomes popular here!

Katherine Camera, the sommelier who'd picked perfect wine pairings to go with the prosciutto dish that Beard Award nominee Brian Polcyn of Forest Grill had created, gave us very specific instructions. She told me to take a bite of the dish and then, before swallowing, to take a sip of the wine so that all of the flavors could meld together, enhancing each other. The red wine was really lovely; and we were very surprised to learn that it had come from ... get this ... Lebanon. I don't know 'bout you, but I don't normally think of Lebanon as a wine producer! But Katherine said there is a long tradition, and Lebanon is on the rise in the wine world.

There was luscious shrimp, beautifully smoked lake trout mousse, crisp potato chips, fragrant sweet honey, tender handmade pasta, crisp slaw, an exceptional pink champagne, a tart German white wine, a distinctive Greek red ... so many tastes, textures, and temptations!

We couldn't stay for the entire evening, as Craig's 13-year-old dog, Sammi - a very sweet little Bolognese (who looks a bit like a Bichon, or a lamb!) - needed care for a nasty cough and tracheal inflammation.

But just before we left, I was so thrilled that Gina and Paul Kittle, who'd won my ticket giveaway, were able to find me in the crowds! In his comment on the giveaway post, Paul had so very sweetly written: "I'd love to win to take my wife on a much deserved Date-Night! We'd enjoy the ride over to beautiful Birmingham!" They came from Muskegon, north and west of here, and spent the weekend downstate; they were able to visit their daughter who lives in the area, as well. So Paul and Gina had a perfect weekend of food, fun, and family - I'm so excited for them!

CRUSH Birmingham was an exceptional event for an even better cause. I was so happy to be able to support it ... :)


Shrimp with Michigan Sweet Corn and Zucchini Pudding and Sweet Potato-Ancho Chili Cream
Jim Barnett, Executive Chef of The Westin Book Cadillac in Dettoit

Hand-Rolled Pasta with Grilled Octopus, Mushrooms, and Fresh Tomato
Myles Anton, Executive Chef of Trattoria Stella in Traverse City


Sourdough bread spread with cheese and drizzled with local honey
Myles Anton, Executive Chef of Trattoria Stella in Traverse City


Broth with Sheep's Milk Ricotta Tortelli, Kabocha Squash, Spiced Heirloom Apple, and Toasted Pepitas
Daniel Campbell, Executive Chef of Tallulah Wine Bar & Bistro and Bellapiatti in Birmingham

Crispy Braised Michigan Pork Belly with Roasted Butternut Squash Puree and Corn
James Rigato, Executive Chef of The Root Restaurant and Bar in White Lake
Venison and Wild Boar Terrine
Matt Millar, Executive Chef of Reserve in Grand Rapids

Venison Ragout with Gnocchi
Matt Millar, Executive Chef of Reserve in Grand Rapids

House-Cured Salmon with Potato Galette and Truffled Creme Fraiche
Paul Grosz, Executive Chef of Cuisine in Detroit

Quinoa Livornese-Stuffed Roast Pepper, Sauteed Royal Trumpet Mushrooms, and Braised Baby Artichoke
Luciano Del Signore, Executive Chef of Bacco Ristorante in Southfield and Pizzeria Biga in Royal Oak

House-Made Prosciutto with Olive Oil-Poached Mediterranean Salad and Pecorino Romano
Brian Polcyn, Executive Chef of Forest Grill in Birmingham and Cincos Lagos in Milford

Lake Huron Smoked Trout Rillette with Red Onion Relish
Steven Gostick, Executive Chef of Toasted Oak Grill in Novi

Lamb Tartare with Cream of Blue Cheese
Guillaume Hazael-Massieux, Executive Chef of La Becasse in Maple City

Thursday, September 13, 2012

The Best Ticket Giveaway Ever!


I am offering the best giveaway ever, if you either live in the Detroit area or are willing to travel here for an exceptional event!

The Children's Leukemia Foundation of Michigan - "an independent nonprofit foundation whose mission is to provide and promote compassionate, personalized support to people in Michigan affected by leukemia and other related disorders" - is preparing for an exciting fundraiser.  (This is the same amazing charity that benefited from BRU Fest this past summer.) The event will feature fabulous food, world-class wines, award-winning chefs, and an opportunity to have fun while supporting an exceptional cause:

What a way to cork-off the season! The CRUSH MICHIGAN signature series of events will celebrate its fifth year with the CRUSH Birmingham 2012 Wine and Food Classic to be held on Saturday, September 22, 2012 at 6:30 p.m. at the Townsend Hotel in Birmingham, Michigan.

There will be 12 local executive chefs in attendance, featuring gourmet dishes. Wine personalities and Master sommeliers will describe, advise, and recommend some of the year’s most exquisite wine choices and pairings. There is also a CRUSH After Hours following the main event.


The mission of CRUSH MICHIGAN continues to be that of creating world-class regional wine and food fundraising events for the benefit of Children’s Leukemia Foundation of Michigan, an independent non-profit foundation serving families throughout the state of Michigan.

Did I mention that several James Beard Award finalists and semi-finalists are among that stellar crowd of chefs who'll be feeding guests? Look at this unbelievably impressive list of participants:

Brian Polcyn
Brian Polcyn, Chef and Proprietor, Cinco Lagos, Milford, and Forest Grill, Birmingham

Michael Laiskonis, Chef, The Institute of Culinary Education, New York


Myles Anton, Executive Chef, Trattoria Stella, Traverse City


Jim Barnett, Executive Chef, Westin Book Cadillac, Detroit


Jim Bologna, Executive Chef, The Rugby Grill, The Townsend Hotel, Birmingham


Daniel Campbell, Executive Chef, Tallulah, Birmingham


Luciano Del Signore
Michael Connery, Executive Chef, Capital Grille, Troy

Luciano Del Signore, Executive Chef, Bacco Ristorante, Southfield

Steven Grostick, Executive Chef, Toasted Oak Grill, Novi


Paul Grosz, Executive Chef, Cuisine, Detroit


Guillaume Hazael-Massieux, Executive Chef, La Becasse, Maple City


John Korycki, Executive Chef, Zazios, A Modern Italian Experience, Kalamazoo and Birmingham


Matt Millar, Executive Chef, Reserve, Grand Rapids


Bartholomew Broadbent
James Rigato, Executive Chef, The Root Restaurant and Bar, White Lake

Ron Edwards, Master Sommelier, Wine Consultant and Educator, Wine Talk Radio Host

Madeline Triffon, Master Sommelier


Claudia Tyagi, Master Sommelier


Bartholomew Broadbent, Broadbent Selections, San Francisco, California


Tickets to this extraordinary event cost $250 ... unless you can win a pair.

That's right: I've been given the opportunity to host this giveaway so that you - yes, you! - might win 2 tickets to CRUSH Birmingham 2012, so you and a date, partner, friend, loved one, whomever can join me at the party and enjoy swoon-worthy dishes and wines while supporting a great cause!!!

Here are the details:

- Leave a comment below telling me that you'd love to win tickets to this fabulous party and would be able to attend.

- Make sure you leave an email address, so I can let you know if you've won.

- The giveaway begins today, and will end at noon on Sunday, September 16.

- I will use random.org to pick a number, then send an email to the winner; you'll have until 8 a.m. on Monday, September 17 to respond, or I'll choose another number.

- The folks at Identity P.R., who are so generously providing tickets to CRUSH Birmingham, will contact the winner by email to confirm names and ages for you and your guest.

- You've gotta find your own way to Birmingham (it's a suburb of Detroit, for non-locals); sorry, no air fare or gas money included in the deal!

- The winner's name will be added to the VIP list, so all you'll need to do is check in at the door when you arrive.

So leave a comment and try to win the tickets! Post this on Facebook and Twitter and whatever other social media you can think of! Send it in an email! Get the word out, because The Children's Leukemia Foundation of Michigan is such a great cause, and this is going to be an amazing party to benefit sick kids and their families.




Monday, July 9, 2012

Pizzeria Biga


Pizzeria Biga opened its second location in April, in Royal Oak (a suburb of Detroit, for my non-Michigan friends); so my BFF Wendy and I made a point of stopping by while we were in the area recently, as this was on the extended Fairy Mary's Food Fantasies "to do" list.

Now, I know you're asking, "Why is a pizza place 40 minutes away from Ann Arbor so important ...?"  Well, let me tell you: because Pizzeria Biga is not just any ol' pizza joint.  Chef and owner Luciano Del Signore was a 2012 semi-finalist for the coveted James Beard Foundation's award for Best Chef: Great Lakes due to the exceptional cuisine he offers at Bacco Ristorante.  Needless to say, then, that if he is the creative force behind even a seemingly simple pizzeria, it's gotta be one fantastic pizzeria!

The restaurant is chic and sophisticated, yet simultaneously warm and unpretentious; it's the sort of place that is at once trendy and hip while being welcoming and comfortable.  You could feel free to loiter over pizza, dessert, coffee, and drinks for an entire evening without feeling as though you were imposing.  Although the dining room was bright and airy, we asked to sit outside because the weather was absolutely stellar on the evening we visited; this let us watch the sun set over the patio as the city lit up and its night owls started to come to life in a flurry of activity.

"Biga," as the menu explains, "is the natural fermentation in our pizza dough" which offers the "distinctive tang of a sourdough."  All of the other ingredients used by Pizzeria Biga are as well chosen and integral to the final product, whether locally sourced or imported from Italy.

Because Wendy has been eating a vegan diet in order to remedy some screwy bloodwork results, we were tickled to see that we would not need to place any special orders and she would not need to compromise (as she's willing to do for special events) her dietary needs.  The Aglio e Olio [AHL-yoh eh OHL-yoh] pizza - featuring garlic and oil, respectively, in the pizza's title, as well as roasted tomato, asparagus, olives, and artichoke hearts - was vegan.

And it was fabulous!

I'm sorry that the picture doesn't do the pizza justice, but there were no candles on the tables and no festive hanging lights where Wendy and I sat; therefore, I could show a photo that's nearly black or a photo with artificial light.  'Tis better to see with a flash than not to see at all.

But the pizza ... back to the pizza!

The crust was crisp and chewy, and also slightly charred - this is not the result of its being burnt by inattentive staff, but is the result of being baked in a 900-degree wood-burning oven.  Rather than this being a mistake, it is indicative of the pizza being authentically "Neapolitano" [nay-ah-pohl-ee-TAH-noh].

Although a simple mix of vegetables topped our pizza and there was no cheese, there was truly an astounding array of flavors.  Each item had been portioned into 1" pieces, rather than huge slices of tomato or chunks of artichoke.  Thus, each bite brought several tastes, as different ingredients shone through and complemented and enhanced each other.  And remarkably, given the pedigree of both the chef and the ingredients, our 12" pizza cost only $8.50 - had we been eating in Ann Arbor, it would have been a Frugal Floozie Friday feature!

Pizzeria Biga's menu offers a variety of choices, from small plate appetizers and pastas to pizzas featuring anything from baby clams to smoked salmon, tuna and capers, even duck prosciutto.  Toppings available for those who want to create their own masterpiece range from the usual suspects to mushroom ragu and roasted zucchini to fried hot peppers and walnuts.


Before our road trip back home, we found our way to the restrooms - one single-person room for each gender.  Rather than waiting in line, since no men were to be found (as per usual!), I used the men's room.  And because it was so entertaining to see the wall decorated with a collage of Farrah Fawcett's famous swimsuit photo from the 70s, I simply had to take a picture. (Wendy told me that Burt Reynolds was showcased in the ladies' room.)

Having already come from an event, Wendy and I couldn't even finish our pizza (which made a fantastic breakfast the next morning), so we weren't hungry for the luscious gelato, cannoli, or tiramisu.  Gee, I guess we'll just have to go back sometime, huh?


Pizzeria Biga
711 S. Main Street
Royal Oak, MI 48067
248-544-BIGA (2442)



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Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Baconfest Michigan - Swooning Over Swine


I had the most fabulous time at Baconfest Michigan this past Saturday, with many thanks to my fellow AnnArbor.com writers Dave Bardallis and Jessica Webster for their assistance in fixing me up with some excellent VIP tickets ... two of them, to be precise.

Now, who would get the thrill of going to this gleeful gala with me?  Because, of course, you have to bring the right companion.  (Photo: One of Jeremy's favorites - a fried plantain topped with bacon and mustard-maple panchetta from Green Dot Stables in Detroit) 

My ex-boyfriend who fears his food - it can't have salt, sugar, or fat; and it can't have flavor, or else it would undoubtedly possess those other verboten qualities - would never have been a candidate.  My friends who are vegetarians wouldn't have enjoyed themselves too much; neither would my many friends who keep kosher ... nope.

But there was one candidate who shone above the others: Jeremy, of course!  I'm a pretty good eater, but a 21-year-old male is a consummate calorie consumer.  And you want someone to join you at this sort of festivity who has a healthy appetite, an adventurous spirit, and a willingness to pop an antacid (or a blood pressure pill) and keep right on going from the first vendor to the last.  (Photo: The sweet, succulent Bacon-Wrapped Pork Belly from One-Eyed Betty's in Ferndale)

Oh, yes.  Jeremy was my only choice for a Baconfest partner in crime!

There were 30 stations.  Jeremy and I ate and/or drank at 25 of them, and only missed a few because they'd run out of goodies before we found our way to them ... pout.  Since I didn't get to try it for myself, I guess I'll just have to make my own version of an Elvis Pie with peanut butter, banana, and - of course! - bacon, huh?  I did, at least, get to try the lusciously rich vanilla ice cream with bacon, maple syrup, and waffles stirred into it, though, with many thanks to Treat Dreams for appeasing my sweet tooth.  (Photo: Another of Jeremy's favorites - a panino [not a typo, it's the singular of "panini"] with bacon, turkey, cheddar, tomatoes, and bacon mayonnaise on ciabatta from The Panini Press in Berkley)

Jeremy thinks I out-ate him, but I think it was a tie - I tried a few more samples, but that's because Jeremy happily ate his entire portions rather than following my example by tasting only a bit ... though, admittedly, I did finish a pretty good number of them.  Never underestimate the skinny girl!  She may normally engage in moderation, but she enjoys good food too much to waste an opportunity such as this by only nibbling.  (Photo: Spicy, chewy Molasses Cookies with bacon from Lily's Seafood in Royal Oak)

As soon as we opened the car doors upon arrival, the amazing fragrance of bacon was in the air.  We walked up to the press table - past a long line of folks waiting for general admission, which was a rare Cinderella-type moment for me - checked in, were given our credentials, and entered into a sea of people, food, music, aromas, and other sensory stimulation.  Let the feasting begin!  (Photo: Sweet and salty Bacon Cashew Caramel Corn from Local Kitchen and Bar, which is coming soon to Ferndale)

As the proud owners of VIP badges, Jeremy and I were also able to go to a special area with four extra tables, two offering food and two offering drinks.

The first of the food stations belonged to the MGM Grand Casino in Detroit, which served some beautiful, wonderfully complex, and flavorful corn cakes topped with peppercorn bacon, a sweet ginger glaze, house-made butter pickles, and pork belly that had been cooked in Michigan's own Faygo root beer.  


The other VIP food station belonged to Forest Grill of Birmingham, home of chef David Gilbert (a 2012 semi-finalist for a James Beard Foundation Award as Best Chef - Great Lakes) and Brian Polcyn (a 2006 nominee for the same honor).  This, of course, has put the restaurant near the very top of Fairy Mary's Food Fantasies (a reference to my fairy godmother costume at Purim and a post about various food-related hopes and dreams, for anyone who is new to my party and thus dazed and confused).

I chatted with the Forest Grill representative a bit, telling her how disappointed I'd been that Chef Gilbert hadn't made the Beard Award finals, though I was happy to have had him noticed.  And then - with great anticipation - we tried these fabulous, smoky, spicy pork sausages in a salty, crisp/chewy pretzel wrap - the most elegant "pigs in blankets" I've ever eaten.  They were complemented by a lovely sharp mustard sauce that had a distinctive tang.


Then we meandered over to the drink tables.  Not being much of a drinker - and never a beer drinker - I was initially going to pass right by these stations and move on to more food ... we all know this is what I obsess about nearly every waking minute, after all!  But Jeremy saw that The Oakland Art Novelty Company was offering a variety of unique drinks, including one called "The Livin's Easy": pale ale served in a cup rimmed with a combination of pork rinds, cayenne, sugar, ghost pepper, and sea salt.

Ghost pepper?  The hottest pepper on the planet?  The famous pepper that scores a full ONE MILLION on the heat scale?  Oh, Jeremy had his heart set on my trying that!

So I sucked up some courage - frankly, more afraid of disliking the beer than the potential pain of the pepper mixture - and we ordered one of these babies.  Except that the station had run out of beer.  But not one to disappoint a child, even if that child is 21 years old and stands 6'3", the bartender went to very gracious neighboring station Jolly Pumpkin Brewery and had them fill the spice-rimmed glass for me.


And so, I smelled the drink ... my sinuses were still okay, not having been seared.  I tried to put my lips to the cup, but was feeling intimidated.  Jeremy, of course, was chuckling at my cowardice.  I touched my finger to the salt mix and tasted that ... just a hint of heat.  I let Jeremy do the same thing - and he's very, very sensitive to spice.  But he didn't think it was particularly oppressive, rather it was more salty than hot.

Then I took the plunge and put the beer to my lips, salt and all.  And here is just part of the expression on my face, as the other photos were too blurry to make out properly:


The beer was pretty good, as far as beer goes; I took another few sips as we wandered around, a never-before-seen occurrence in my life.  The spice wasn't too bad - certainly not painful, as I'd thought it might be.  This concoction was definitely the most unique thing I tried at Baconfest!  And it sure did have a kick, I'll have to admit ... :)

There was so much food to gluttonously plow through!  I think my favorites were the ones that combined sweet and salty, as well as offering contrasting textures - bacon caramel apples and blue cheese-stuffed dates with bacon were very high on my list of treats that nearly made me swoon.  I wish I could show you everything, but there are items I don't even have pictures of - whether because of lighting, balancing too many things, crowds, the station having run out before my camera and I got to them, or just a photo that didn't turn out well.  (Photo: Sweet and tender Bacon Butterscotch Scones from Cheeky Monkeys Foods in Royal Oak)

But they all definitely deserve to be noted: butterscotch pudding topped with crisp bacon bits ... Irish nachos with bacon ... bacon-wrapped corn on the cob ... bacon-wrapped meatloaf ... chocolate-covered candied bacon ... "Bacon-Infused Pizza Awesomeness" ... chophouse salad with creamy bacon-herb dressing ... "Pig Candy" (brown sugar-coated bacon strips) ... wasabi chips with green tea tapioca and duck-bacon ... figs stuffed with goat cheese and wrapped in bacon ... applewood bacon brittle ... bacon and grit cake with maple-pepper bacon ... sweet potato, maple and bacon pie ... bacon fat truffles ... Triple Cheese Mac and Bacon Threat ... and bacon fat ice cream with pureed bacon.  Oy!

To read more about our adventures at Baconfest, go to AnnArbor.com's Food & Grocery page; today's post tells about the Ann Arbor area offerings in great - and delicious - detail.  If I'd included it all here, none of you would ever bother to finish reading the post!  (Photo: "The Frankenbacon," which is sausage and cheese wrapped in bacon, all smoked and coated in sauce ... and wrapped in more bacon - from Detroit BBQ Company in Detroit)

Well, as you can see, Jeremy and I pigged out (groan ...!) at Baconfest Michigan.  We had so much fun, ate so much fabulous food, heard great music, and enjoyed ourselves immensely.  I'm probably still oozing treyf ([TRAYF] = non-kosher), but very happily so!

Photo collage at the top of the post: a spicy, tender, fabulous Pork Belly Slider with pickled red onion, bacon jam, and grainy mustard from Cork Wine Pub in Pleasant Ridge; luscious, buttery hand-dipped Bacon Caramel Apples from The Root Restaurant and Bar in White Lake that were among my very favorite treats; and moist, seductive Bacon-Banana Cupcakes with Bacon Buttercream from Cliff Bell's in Detroit.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

Beard Awards Blathering

The James Beard Awards - often referred to as the "Oscars of the food world" - were given out just a few days ago; the winners in writing and television categories were announced this past Friday evening, with the chef, restaurant, and wine/bar programs being honored on Monday night.

These are bestowed by the enormously prestigious James Beard Foundation, whose "mission is to celebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s diverse culinary heritage and future."  Here is the organization's philosophy:

"Food matters. You are what you eat not only because food is nutrition, but also because food is an integral part of our everyday lives. Food is economics, politics, entertainment, culture, fashion, family, passion ... and nourishment. The James Beard Foundation is at the center of America's culinary community, dedicated to exploring the way food enriches our lives."

Thus, the Beard Awards are a huge, huge event for those who are fortunate enough to be in the inner circles.  They're also a very big deal for obsessive geeks like me who sit in front of their laptops watching a live stream of the ceremony (since the Food Network inexplicably doesn't show it).

So, what did I think?  Do I have some opinions about the winners, non-winners (it sounds so much kinder than "losers"), and everything else?

Why, of course I do!  I'm the same girl who once ridiculed the absurdity of Gatorade flavors and ranted about wedding cake - or, rather, a lack thereof at a friend's niece's wedding.  Of course I have notions to share and pontificating to do!

So pour a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, depending upon the time of day, and let's chat.  Here's the list of winners for you to peruse, in case you haven't seen it yet, so that you can contribute to this cause in the comments.

In no particular order:

- I acknowledge that big cities tend to have the greatest opportunity for, and ability to support, world-class restaurants.  But the finalists and winners were very New York- and Chicago-centric.  Boston, Seattle, San Francisco, Austin ... they all represented a bit.  But overwhelmingly, those other two nabbed the attention.  I adore both cities - I was born and raised in New York!  But there's a wide world of culinary excellence beyond their skyscrapers.

- I didn't even like Ted Allen on "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy," one of my very favorite shows in its early incarnation (before they started to whore themselves out to sponsors and were heavy-handed in mentioning brand names).  Ted was supposed to coach the poor schlub guests about cooking and dining.  And one time he actually expected some clueless guy - because, of course, they were all clueless guys who needed to move on from their frat-boy status into adulthood with the help of the gay community's fabulousness - to learn how to cook (cruelly) and eat (messily) a lobster, rather than teaching him how to prepare something simple and classic and neat and tidy.  It was so unfair and embarrassing!!!  So now I see him on "Chopped," for which he won two - two!!! - Beard Awards.  He is the antithesis of dynamic, and so ungifted in stating the obvious; Jeremy and I groan when we watch him, because he is utterly superfluous on the show and makes his lack of necessity painfully evident.  And he - Ted Allen?!? - won two awards???

- I'm very sorry that no chefs from Michigan restaurants made the short list of nominees. (Grant Achatz - culinary superstar, multiple Beard Award winner, inductee this year into the Beard Foundation's "Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America" - was raised in Michigan but owns restaurants in Chicago).  Three had been named as semi-finalists: Luciano Del Signore of Bacco Ristorante in Southfield; David Gilbert of Forest Grill in Birmingham; and Matthew Millar of Reserve in Grand Rapids all received acknowledgement of their gifts and talents in the early rounds.  I'm also sorry that the Michigan-raised nephew of a good friend/co-worker - Max Sussman of Roberta's in New York City - didn't make the final list of nominees for "Rising Star Chef of the Year."  His winning would have been so, so cool!

- I was so happy to see the warm and wonderful Laurie Colwin welcomed into the Cookbook Hall of Fame, many years posthumously.  She writes as though she's chatting while the two of you are making dinner ... precisely the tone I strive for.  Nothing glamorous or complicated, just simple lovely recipes.  If you haven't read her work, I highly recommend her collections of food essays - Home Cooking and More Home Cooking - in addition to her fiction.

- Why was everyone wearing black or grey, with the exception of Duff Goldman who wore a mustard-colored t-shirt which was inappropriately informal for the occasion despite being worn under a dark suit?  Yeah, it was New York and it was a semi-formal affair.  But still!  When I go to the awards ceremony some day - when, not if!  Be positive! - I will wear pink.  Maybe red, maybe purple, but most likely pink.  With sparkles, of course ... :)

- I love that there are awards specifically for newcomers - such as the afore-mentioned "Rising Star Chef of the Year" award that my friend's nephew should have won (though it was no surprise whatsoever that Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar, famous for her addictive Crack Pie, won that prize) - as well as for those who are well-established and have produced and served at a consistently exceptional level for a minimum of 5 or 10 years (depending upon the category).  Everyone gets a chance.

- The ceremony didn't run very smoothly, and there was a fair amount of "down time" between presentations.  The show needs some form of transition ... possibly a band, so they also have a means to play off the long-winded folks (though there were thankfully very few of them).

- I'm so impressed that the winner of "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic," Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama, is also an academic with a doctorate in Medieval Spanish history.  However, she was one of those long-winded winners who needed to be played off the stage.  I, of course, say this as someone who would also undoubtedly get played off the stage.  Judge not, lest ye be judged.

- It's so important that while there are many accolades for sophistication and pretense, there is also celebration of comfort food and old-fashioned favorites, acknowledging culinary and style diversity while appreciating talent and fabulous flavor wherever they may be found.

- And that leads me to my favorite category of the evening: "America’s Classics."  This category honors establishments ranging from steak houses to back woods shacks that are "beloved in their regions for quality food that reflects the character of their community."  This year's honorees are:

Jones Bar-B-Q Diner (Marianna, Arkansas)
Nora's Fish Creek Inn (Wilson, Wyoming)
Shady Glen (Manchester, Connecticut)
St. Elmo Steak House (Indianapolis, Indiana)
The Fry Bread House (Phoenix, Arizona)

Each link features the video that was shown at the awards ceremony, demonstrating how cherished these establishments are in their towns, letting you meet the owners who give so much of themselves each day and who maintain valuable traditions.  I highly recommend that you watch each segment - they're only about 2 minutes long.  But if you only watch one, watch the one for Jones Bar-B-Q Diner ... I intend to make a pilgrimage there some day.  Others go to Mecca, I'm going down to Marianna, Arkansas, for some seriously old-fashioned, "if it ain't broke why fix it?", secret recipe, this is how it's done barbecue.  And I love that an older couple - the barbecue joint's owners - from a podunk town of 4000 right smack in the middle of the state was wined, dined, and celebrated in the big ol' city!  This was my favorite award - and my favorite recipient - of all!


Thursday, March 15, 2012

Fairy Mary's Food Fantasies

I haven't written a post with a meandering list in ages and ages.  But for some reason, it struck my fancy that the time had come to do so ... to make a list of goals to encourage acting upon my word of the year - reach - and keep seeking ways to expand my proverbial horizons.

And so today, in no particular order, I offer a list of various food-related hopes and dreams, experiences I would like to have someday (although some of them will require not just renewal of my passport, but also a 'script to medicate myself into submission to overcome my phobia of flying!):

1. Memphis in May: The World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest is also known as "The Super Bowl of Swine."  To even place in this event is a coup; to win it brings not only prize money but - really, even more importantly - tremendous respect.  I can't see myself competing against people for whom this is truly a life's passion; I don't even own a grill, though I plan to remedy that personal deficit this summer.  Instead, I want to just eat my way through it and experience the joy of - and devotion to - a culinary art form: meeting the contestants, sampling entries and voting for People's Choice Award, touring the grilling stations, and relishing the celebration.

2. Although I've lived in Michigan since 1978, I have never stood in one of the very long lines at a Polish bakery in Hamtramck on Pączki Day (the day before Ash Wednesday).  I want to schmooze with my fellow devotees as we huddle in the cold before being rewarded with freshly-fried pączki [POONCH-key] once reaching the front of the line. Here's a video that shows the camaraderie and anticipation as happy, hungry folks wait for what is so much more than just a glorified jelly doughnut. I need to do this next year!



3. I want to eat my way through Italy, learning about the idiosyncracies and trademarks of the regional cuisines.  The Italians take these things very seriously - there are even laws enforcing production standards and places of origin in order for certain foods to be labelled by particular names.  (For example, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese can only officially be called such if it is produced in the provinces of Parma or Reggio-Emilia or their immediate surroundings.) There is no such thing, in Italy, as "Italian food."  Items are localized to regions and even to cities, with pride at the heart of it all.

4. I would love to win a James Beard Award, considered the Oscars of the food world - sheesh, even a nomination would thrill me!  I don't see it happening - I'm not a chef, I'm not a sommelier, I haven't published a cookbook.  Sure, there's a category for "Best Food Blog;" but I do this part-time and don't have the resources to create anything substantial or impressive enough to garner Beard-worthy attention.  There is a category for "Best Personal Essay," as well as the M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award; but these aren't meant to cover flaky chicks who blather about $5 Frugal Floozie Friday deals or cling peaches in heavy syrup. Maybe I'll finagle and schmooze my way into these venues some day!  A girl can dream ... :)

5. Morocco has long sung its Siren song to me, and I would love to shop in the souks (open air markets), taking in all the colors, fragrances, sounds, tastes ... it would be an entire sensory experience.  Moroccan cuisine is one of my favorites - tagines, spices, fruits, salads, pastries, mint tea (I have my own set of the special tea glasses) ... all of it calls to me.  There is so much more than just the couscous that many people know of!  I need to cook some Moroccan food ... it's been too long ....

6. How extraordinary would it be to have dinner at Alinea in Chicago, to be amazed by the transformation of ingredients that culinary magician (and James Beard Award winner) Grant Achatz and his staff performs???  Just click on this link and gasp at the sheer beauty of the gorgeous photos - these dishes are artworks, not merely sustenance.  Achatz is one of the leaders in the poorly named Molecular Gastronomy movement, which involves scientific and technological techniques that go far beyond just "cooking" foods.  Instead, they are altered and become both unfamiliar and yet, once touching the tongue, recognizable as each item's unique essence shines through.  I'm not quite certain that I would even know how to approach some of the plates!  But a meal at this exceptional restaurant would be, truly, a once-in-a-lifetime experience that I would so love to indulge in.

7. It would be a tremendous challenge to be the cook for the winter-over staff at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Research Station.  From February through October, it is desperately cold (on average, -100F); travel to-and-from the continent is virtually impossible, so once you're there you're committed to the extreme 24-hour darkness.  Summer is the more crowded season, with numerous projects and greater staffing needs, but some work continues through the winter.  A unique community forms among those who think it is reasonable to live cooped up in the facility for 6 months dependent upon each other, despite these being independent-minded folks who would otherwise think it was ludicrous to abandon loved ones and life as they used to know it for this adventure!  Supplies are very carefully and cautiously purchased and shipped to the Pole, and what you've got is what you work with; thus, as kitchen staff, you'd try to provide nutrition and variety while simultaneously not being able to run to the market to buy ingredients to satisfy cravings or replenish the pantry when it's running low.  My "Chopped" Challenge was nothin' compared to this!

8. And finally, I would adore an opportunity to go on a food-fanatics' road trip with my best-est blogging buddies, so we can all finally get together and celebrate food, fun, and our fabulous selves!  Touring the country, eating our way through large cities and small towns, cementing life-long friendships as we learned about each other's favorite family recipes and legendary hometown restaurants ... how amazing would that be???

If I really were a fairy godmother - my Purim costume for this year - I would wave my beribboned pink wand and make all these wishes come true!  Unfortunately, I have no powers.  And in the picture above you can't even see the glitter that sparkled in my hair; and my gold-bedazzled wings were blowing around in the breeze ... oy.  Many people told me I'm the only one they know who could pull off wearing wings and a tiara, that this outfit was very "me."  I'm happily taking that as a compliment!  A girl's gotta have a sense of humor and whimsy ... :)


I don't normally post on weekends, but this girl who's one-quarter Irish is, indeed, aware that Saturday is St. Paddy's Day.  (I'll be happily and excitedly judging the Brisket Bake-off at Temple Beth Emeth that evening; but I'll wear green, and they're also serving that Irish staple - potatoes!) So, a few days early, here are some Irish-themed recipes for your upcoming festivities:


Irish Soda Bread


Banbury Cakes


Chocolate Guinness Cake



For today's recipe - Cipollini in Agrododolce alla Romana (Roman-Style Sweet-and-Sour Onions) for the Ides of March - go to the Food and Grocery page of AnnArbor.com ....

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