Max Sussman and Eli Sussman Coming to Williams-Sonoma

(If you missed it on AnnArbor.com yesterday, here's a post you need to see! Fabulous food, great event ... join me there, if you're in town!)


There's more to life than football. Even in Ann Arbor, even when we're talking about the upcoming Ohio State game, there's more to life than football. Really, there is!

There's food. And I don't just mean tailgating food, although that's very important. I'm referring to food prepared by two of the most talked-about chefs in New York City, who are making their home state of Michigan very proud.

In my obsessive little world, chefs are the rock stars. And two of the hottest acts right now are Max Sussman and his brother Eli, who live and work in Brooklyn but who will be offering a cooking demonstration at Briarwood's Williams-Sonoma store at 3 p.m. on Saturday. They'll also be signing copies of This is a Cookbook: Recipes for Real Life, which has just been published. How can you not love a book written, as they phrase it themselves, "by 2 guys who like to eat"?

Eli cooks at the Mile-End Deli, and is also the marketing director for Taste of the Nation NYC, an event that benefits the exceptional charity Share Our Strength, which fights hunger and particularly promotes feeding children. Max is a chef at Roberta's, the very trendy pizzeria that has received 2 stars from The New York Times; and he was a semifinalist for this year's James Beard Foundation Awards, on the radar for Rising Star Chef of the Year. Both brothers made Zagat's 2012 "30 Under 30: NYC's Hottest Up-and-Comers" list of food professionals to watch.

The Sussman brothers are passionate about excellent, but not pretentious, food. Their cookbook offers recipes for everything from dishes to impress your girlfriend when you first cook dinner for her to midnight snacks after a long night with friends (or, in their cases, at work). And there is a recipe for a Chocolate-Peanut Butter Pie that only requires baking a graham cracker crust, while the filling is merely mixed, poured, and refrigerated. "If you're capable of reading this cookbook, you are capable of making this dessert look as insanely good as the picture."

Max and Eli's philosophy is simple, as they noted in an interview with The New York Times:

“For us, it’s not about a concept, it’s about making stuff that people are going to enjoy eating,” Max said. “We wanted the recipes to be immediately useful.”

Eli said: “It sounds a bit obvious, but we really wanted it to be a cookbook — like a cooking book. It’s not a coffee-table book. If this book just sits on people’s coffee tables, it’s basically a failure.”

The Bacon 'n' Blue Cheese Pizza featured below - found in a section that berates people for relying upon the sacrilege that is frozen pizza - would be an exceptional offering for today's tailgating feast. Go Blue, after all! Jeremy and I adore both blue cheese and bacon, so this was absolutely our first choice when selecting a recipe to try from the Sussmans' cookbook. My boyfriend Craig is not a fan of blue cheese, however he did promise to at least try it; almost anything is improved with bacon, after all, and pizza is probably his favorite food.

Well, I used a different crust recipe than the one in the book because I'd committed a cardinal sin of cooking: I'd failed to read Max and Eli's recipe ahead of time, and didn't have the necessary 1-2 hours available to let their dough rise. But I quickly buzzed their sauce around in the blender, and followed their recommendations for the toppings.

"Ooh"s and "Ahh"s, and much anticipation, preceded the first bites. And I'm here to tell you that this was one fabulously amazing creation! In fact, of the 12 slices of pizza I offered for dinner on the night I served this, I was granted only two; the rest was devoured by my two dining companions ... even by the one who didn't previously like blue cheese.

So, you should come with me to see Max and Eli at Williams-Sonoma this Saturday. They know how to cook, and they want to show you how easy it is and how much fun it can be.

You can watch endless replays of the game later on. But how many opportunities will you have for these two handsome, charming guys to feed you?

Max Sussman and Eli Sussman Book Signing and Cooking Demonstration
Saturday, November 24 at 3:00 p.m.
Williams-Sonoma
808 Briarwood Circle, Ann Arbor

Bacon 'n' Blue Cheese Pizza

Crust:

• 1 packet quick-rise yeast
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 cup warm water
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 3 cups flour

In a large bowl, combine yeast, sugar and water; let proof for 5 minutes. Stir in salt and flour. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and then a dish towel; place in a warm place to let rise for 30 minutes.

Sauce:

• 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, drained
• 2 large garlic cloves
• 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Place all ingredients into a blender; puree until smooth.

Pizza:

• cornmeal
• 1 pound bacon, cut into 1" pieces
• 8 ounces Mozzarella, shredded
• 2/3 cup shredded Parmesan
• 6 ounces crumbled blue cheese

Preheat oven to 425F. Sprinkle a bit of cornmeal onto the bottom of a 15"x10" baking sheet.

Cook the bacon in a skillet until crisp; drain on paper towels.

Punch down the pizza dough. Place onto the prepared baking sheet and carefully stretch the dough to the edges of the baking sheet. Spread some of the sauce over the dough, reserving the rest for another purpose. Sprinkle Mozzarella and Parmesan over the top.

Sprinkle bacon and blue cheese over the top of the pizza. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until cheese is bubbling and crust is crisp. Let rest for 5 minutes before cutting into slices.

Makes 12 generous slices.

Beard Awards Blathering

The James Beard Awards - often referred to as the "Oscars of the food world" - were given out just a few days ago; the winners in writing and television categories were announced this past Friday evening, with the chef, restaurant, and wine/bar programs being honored on Monday night.

These are bestowed by the enormously prestigious James Beard Foundation, whose "mission is to celebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s diverse culinary heritage and future."  Here is the organization's philosophy:

"Food matters. You are what you eat not only because food is nutrition, but also because food is an integral part of our everyday lives. Food is economics, politics, entertainment, culture, fashion, family, passion ... and nourishment. The James Beard Foundation is at the center of America's culinary community, dedicated to exploring the way food enriches our lives."

Thus, the Beard Awards are a huge, huge event for those who are fortunate enough to be in the inner circles.  They're also a very big deal for obsessive geeks like me who sit in front of their laptops watching a live stream of the ceremony (since the Food Network inexplicably doesn't show it).

So, what did I think?  Do I have some opinions about the winners, non-winners (it sounds so much kinder than "losers"), and everything else?

Why, of course I do!  I'm the same girl who once ridiculed the absurdity of Gatorade flavors and ranted about wedding cake - or, rather, a lack thereof at a friend's niece's wedding.  Of course I have notions to share and pontificating to do!

So pour a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, depending upon the time of day, and let's chat.  Here's the list of winners for you to peruse, in case you haven't seen it yet, so that you can contribute to this cause in the comments.

In no particular order:

- I acknowledge that big cities tend to have the greatest opportunity for, and ability to support, world-class restaurants.  But the finalists and winners were very New York- and Chicago-centric.  Boston, Seattle, San Francisco, Austin ... they all represented a bit.  But overwhelmingly, those other two nabbed the attention.  I adore both cities - I was born and raised in New York!  But there's a wide world of culinary excellence beyond their skyscrapers.

- I didn't even like Ted Allen on "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy," one of my very favorite shows in its early incarnation (before they started to whore themselves out to sponsors and were heavy-handed in mentioning brand names).  Ted was supposed to coach the poor schlub guests about cooking and dining.  And one time he actually expected some clueless guy - because, of course, they were all clueless guys who needed to move on from their frat-boy status into adulthood with the help of the gay community's fabulousness - to learn how to cook (cruelly) and eat (messily) a lobster, rather than teaching him how to prepare something simple and classic and neat and tidy.  It was so unfair and embarrassing!!!  So now I see him on "Chopped," for which he won two - two!!! - Beard Awards.  He is the antithesis of dynamic, and so ungifted in stating the obvious; Jeremy and I groan when we watch him, because he is utterly superfluous on the show and makes his lack of necessity painfully evident.  And he - Ted Allen?!? - won two awards???

- I'm very sorry that no chefs from Michigan restaurants made the short list of nominees. (Grant Achatz - culinary superstar, multiple Beard Award winner, inductee this year into the Beard Foundation's "Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America" - was raised in Michigan but owns restaurants in Chicago).  Three had been named as semi-finalists: Luciano Del Signore of Bacco Ristorante in Southfield; David Gilbert of Forest Grill in Birmingham; and Matthew Millar of Reserve in Grand Rapids all received acknowledgement of their gifts and talents in the early rounds.  I'm also sorry that the Michigan-raised nephew of a good friend/co-worker - Max Sussman of Roberta's in New York City - didn't make the final list of nominees for "Rising Star Chef of the Year."  His winning would have been so, so cool!

- I was so happy to see the warm and wonderful Laurie Colwin welcomed into the Cookbook Hall of Fame, many years posthumously.  She writes as though she's chatting while the two of you are making dinner ... precisely the tone I strive for.  Nothing glamorous or complicated, just simple lovely recipes.  If you haven't read her work, I highly recommend her collections of food essays - Home Cooking and More Home Cooking - in addition to her fiction.

- Why was everyone wearing black or grey, with the exception of Duff Goldman who wore a mustard-colored t-shirt which was inappropriately informal for the occasion despite being worn under a dark suit?  Yeah, it was New York and it was a semi-formal affair.  But still!  When I go to the awards ceremony some day - when, not if!  Be positive! - I will wear pink.  Maybe red, maybe purple, but most likely pink.  With sparkles, of course ... :)

- I love that there are awards specifically for newcomers - such as the afore-mentioned "Rising Star Chef of the Year" award that my friend's nephew should have won (though it was no surprise whatsoever that Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar, famous for her addictive Crack Pie, won that prize) - as well as for those who are well-established and have produced and served at a consistently exceptional level for a minimum of 5 or 10 years (depending upon the category).  Everyone gets a chance.

- The ceremony didn't run very smoothly, and there was a fair amount of "down time" between presentations.  The show needs some form of transition ... possibly a band, so they also have a means to play off the long-winded folks (though there were thankfully very few of them).

- I'm so impressed that the winner of "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic," Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama, is also an academic with a doctorate in Medieval Spanish history.  However, she was one of those long-winded winners who needed to be played off the stage.  I, of course, say this as someone who would also undoubtedly get played off the stage.  Judge not, lest ye be judged.

- It's so important that while there are many accolades for sophistication and pretense, there is also celebration of comfort food and old-fashioned favorites, acknowledging culinary and style diversity while appreciating talent and fabulous flavor wherever they may be found.

- And that leads me to my favorite category of the evening: "America’s Classics."  This category honors establishments ranging from steak houses to back woods shacks that are "beloved in their regions for quality food that reflects the character of their community."  This year's honorees are:

Jones Bar-B-Q Diner (Marianna, Arkansas)

Nora's Fish Creek Inn (Wilson, Wyoming)

Shady Glen (Manchester, Connecticut)

St. Elmo Steak House (Indianapolis, Indiana)

The Fry Bread House (Phoenix, Arizona)

Each link features the video that was shown at the awards ceremony, demonstrating how cherished these establishments are in their towns, letting you meet the owners who give so much of themselves each day and who maintain valuable traditions.  I highly recommend that you watch each segment - they're only about 2 minutes long.  But if you only watch one, watch the one for Jones Bar-B-Q Diner ... I intend to make a pilgrimage there some day.  Others go to Mecca, I'm going down to Marianna, Arkansas, for some seriously old-fashioned, "if it ain't broke why fix it?", secret recipe, this is how it's done barbecue.  And I love that an older couple - the barbecue joint's owners - from a podunk town of 4000 right smack in the middle of the state was wined, dined, and celebrated in the big ol' city!  This was my favorite award - and my favorite recipient - of all!