Detroit-Style Pizza

I read an article in the Detroit Free Press recently that talked about how pizza from this area is starting to get recognition around the country. Everyone knows the famous New York City foldable slice that I grew up eating, the Chicago deep-dish pie, and the unconventional and quirky toppings of California-style pizza.

But pizza from Detroit? Huh? Don't they call that Little Caesar's or Domino's, both of which were founded here in Michigan?

Not exactly.

The newfangled pizzas were apparently first made in this area at Buddy's Pizza (then called "Buddy's Rendezvous") in 1946. The unusual style, and its immense popularity, inspired others to copy it and perfect it. The pizza has subsequently evolved and become very distinctive and unbelievably good. It really is its own unique, savory entity.

So, after all of this preamble, what, precisely, is Detroit-style pizza???

Well, here are its characteristics:

• It's square, not round. Corners are prized.

• It's baked in a deep pan, so it's very thick.  But while the interior of the crust is soft and light, the exterior is crisp.

• The toppings and the cheese are distributed over the entire crust, without leaving a bare edge. This allows the cheese that touches the pan to become chewy, crunchy, and caramelized as it bakes.

• Most of the sauce is spread over the cheese, rather than lying under it. This makes it less liquid, and thus better integrated with the toppings rather than being a separate layer that the cheese will just slide off of.

Brandon Hunt, co-owner with his brother, Zane, of VIA 313: Authentic Detroit Style Pizza in Austin, was quoted in the Free Press article: "When you grow up in Detroit, you just think that's pizza ... that everybody knows it. But it's really a Detroit thing. It's great, and we thought people should be able to experience it."

Shawn Randazzo, of the Detroit Style Pizza Co., won the 2012 Las Vegas International Pizza Expo with a Detroit-style pizza, a first for the competition. Jeff Smokevitch, raised in a Detroit suburb but now making his hometown's unique pizza at his Brown Dog Pizza in Telluride, Colorado, came in 2nd overall in this year's contest.

To see if Detroit-style pizza is available near you, or to learn more about this growing phenomenon, check out Shawn Randazzo's DetroitStylePizza.com.

Or make the pizza in the picture at the top of this post. You know you want some!


Detroit-Style Pizza

Crust:

• 2 packets quick-rise yeast
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1-1/2 cups warm water, divided
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt
• 3-1/2 cups unbleached flour
• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 cup oil

In a large mixing bowl, combine yeast, sugar, and 3/4 cup water; let proof for 10 minutes. Stir in remaining water, salt, 3 cups flour, and garlic powder. Mix well. Turn dough out onto a countertop and knead in the remaining 1/2 cup flour until a soft dough forms.

Place the oil in another large mixing bowl. Place the dough into it, turning to coat the dough thoroughly with the oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a dish towel; let rise for 1 hour until doubled.

Punch down dough and place into a greased 9"x13" metal baking pan (the darker the better). Press dough to edges of pan, cover with plastic wrap and a dish towel; let rise for 1 hour until doubled.

Sauce:

• 1 15-ounce can crushed tomatoes
• 3 tablespoons pesto
• 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• generous sprinkling of red pepper flakes
• pinch of kosher salt

Combine all ingredients.

Toppings:

• 1 small red onion, chopped
• 4 ounces ham, chopped
• 4 ounces fresh mushrooms, chopped
• 2 cups baby spinach leaves, chopped
• 4 ounces fresh mozzarella, chopped
• 8 ounces mozzarella, shredded

Preheat oven to 425F. Spread a very thin layer of the sauce over the dough.

Sprinkle each of the toppings over the sauce, spreading all the way to the edges. Drizzle just a bit more sauce over the toppings.

Sprinkle both cheeses over the top of the pizza, all the way to the edges.

Spread the rest of the sauce over the cheese and mix the sauce and cheese together just a bit.

Bake for 30 minutes until cheese is melted and golden, and edges are caramelized and crisp. Let cool for 5 minutes before cutting.

Makes 8-12 generous slices.

Grilled Cheese Sloppy Joe Sandwiches

I hadn't eaten Sloppy Joes for ages, until very recently. Remarkably, there was a bit of the filling left over - how'd that happen? That never happens!

But this time, it did.

Sure, I could've made one more of the same ol' same ol' ... but why? Why not spiff it up a bit, make it extra ooey, gooey, messy, and delicious?

And thus, the Grilled Cheese Sloppy Joe Sandwich!


Grilled Cheese Sloppy Joe Sandwich

2 slices sourdough bread
schmear of brown mustard, to taste
very thin slices of red onion, to taste
2 slices Pepper Jack cheese
2/3 cup leftover Sloppy Joe beef

Schmear butter on outsides of bread; lay butter-side down onto a plate. Schmear insides of bread with mustard, and top with cheese and onion.

Spread beef onto one piece of bread, then carefully top with the other piece to make the sandwich.

Heat a skillet over medium heat and grill the sandwich for several minutes per side until the outside is golden and the cheese has melted.

Makes 1 large sandwich.

Julia Child Week: Onion Tart with Anchovies and Black Olives

It's Julia Child Week! Wednesday would have been Julia's 100th birthday, so there have been many tributes: special dinners at restaurants around the country, a lovely new children's book about Julia and her cat in Paris, a panel nominating her top 100 recipes, a picnic I enjoyed yesterday (which will be Wednesday's features here and on AnnArbor.com) ... oh, the festivities! Oh, the food!

I remember watching "The French Chef" with my mother many moons ago; I'd be eating my pb&j, watching as this charming woman made lovely dishes and made us all feel that we could tackle each of these steps, as well. With Julia, cooking elaborate and sophisticated meals wasn't intimidating ... it was fun!

So this week, I'm featuring a variety of Julia's recipes. I looked over the list of the top 100, but many of them were too rich and heavy for hot August days, or they would require specialized equipment or techniques. And I've written posts about lighter dishes - such as souffles and cream puffs and potato salad with vinaigrette - already, so I wanted to offer new items.

So - dedicated soul that I am! - I perused cookbooks to find recipes that struck my fancy, that were easy to make, that were flavorful, that were summery, and that were representative of Julia Child herself: at their essence, a few simple ingredients that shone when prepared properly.

Today's offering is a simple tart, which looks very contemporary - bruschetta-like, reminiscent of foccaccia. And yet, it comes from Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I, which was originally published in 1961. The classics will always be perfect and timeless ... just like Julia Child herself.





Pissaladière Niçoise (Onion Tart with Anchovies and Black Olives) [pee-sah-lah-DEEAYR nee-SWAHZ]

(adapted from Julia Child's recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume I)

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 3 basil leaves, minced
• 2 tablespoons minced parsley
• 1 large garlic clove, minced
• 1 8" piece naan (or other prepared flatbread)
• 8 anchovy fillets, drained of oil
• 8 Kalamata olives, halved lengthwise
• 1/4 cup finely shredded Parmesan cheese

In a small skillet, heat oil over very low heat.  Add onion, basil, parsley, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes until onion is tender and caramelized.

Preheat oven to 400F.

Place the flatbread onto a baking sheet; arrange the anchovies and olives decoratively on top.

Sprinkle cheese over the flatbread.  Bake for 10-15 minutes until cheese has started to melt and tart is heated through.

Cut into 4-6 pieces and serve immediately.

(Feel free to leave off the anchovies and substitute a few more olives, if desired.  But they really marry well with the olives - strong flavors working together to enhance the whole ....)

Frugal Floozie Friday - Mani Osteria

Mani Osteria was recently named one of the country's best new pizza places by Food & Wine magazine. You wouldn't think it could be a Frugal Floozie Friday feature with that kind of reputation, but it is!

I met my friend Kate, who was in Michigan for an annual family vacation, for dinner there recently; she was going to be heading back home the next morning, so I left it up to her to choose where she'd like to eat on her one evening in town. We had never met before, having only exchanged witty and pithy messages and comments on Facebook. I knew that she had worked as a chef, and also that she is likely the only other person alive who'd ever heard of Gary Numan's "Telekon" album or even knew that he'd recorded any songs other than "Cars." A kindred spirit - how could we not meet for dinner while we had the chance?

It turns out that Kate is also as indecisive as I am, given that neither of us is a picky eater. I often think life would be easier if I didn't like so many foods - I'd know which one or two would pass inspection, and then I'd be done. But Kate and I kept talking, debating options, talking, considering choices, talking, and trying valiantly to narrow down the potential selections; everything looked good, which only makes my brain hurt. We were both "impressed by the wait staff not pressuring us," as Kate noted, since this really did take a fair amount of time.

We decided to start with the carpaccio - beautifully thin slices of raw beef - served with arugula, Parmigianino, capers, and a spritz of lemon. As Kate said, she "was a bit hesitant to go with the meat on such a hot day, (but) it was just so light and tasty."

Other appetizers that could easily be split among two would be the Roasted Olives for $6, the Arancini for $7, or the Pickled Tomatoes with Ricotta or Isabel's Meatballs for $9 each.

The beef was, to use an overworked but still accurate phrase, meltingly tender. The arugula had just the right peppery bite, and the flavors all combined beautifully, distinct and yet in harmony. At $14, it could come in at our mandatory $5 per person budget if shared with 1 or 2 more people; and that would be a sufficient portion, even given the lightness of the dish, considering the generosity of the pizza that followed.

An even more difficult decision than choosing an appetizer was choosing a pizza. This combination sounded wonderful, but was perhaps heavy for a hot day. This other one was seemed maybe a bit spicy. Decisions, decisions! But we finally settled upon the Red Onion and Pistachio pizza which also features goat cheese, rosemary and chili flakes.

It turns out that Kate's sister, Amy McNulty, who lives in Ann Arbor, orders this regularly when she and her husband eat at Mani. We hadn't known, we just honed in on it for its flavors and textures. At $15, and with 6 slices, it is a perfect Frugal Floozie Friday option for a party of 3-4; as it was, I went home with leftovers since Kate had no refrigerator at her hotel to store the treasure in.

The crust was perfectly crisp, yet chewy rather than cracker-like. Each flavor, from the thinly sliced onion to the crumbled cheese, is perfectly portioned such that none overwhelms the others. Not only that, but Kate told me that Amy describes it perfectly: "Each flavor is discrete." You note the pistachio's richness, and yet, it's not the sole flavor you detect. You taste the chilies as they tingle your tongue, but they aren't pervasive.

Unfortunately, we ran out of time and had to go.  The perfect Frugal Floozie Friday feature is the gelato, available in seasonal flavors for precisely $5, but we didn't have a chance to try it. Perhaps we'll start with dessert when we go back ...?


Mani Osteria
341 E. Liberty
Ann Arbor, MI 48104
734-769-6700
Tuesday - Thursday: 11:30 a.m. - 10 p.m.
Friday: 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m.
Saturday: 4 - 11 p.m.
Sunday: 4 - 9 p.m.



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BBQ Pork Sandwich with Fennel and Onion

I found a pork loin on sale at the grocery store recently, so I simply had to buy it.  I had no idea what I'd make with it, since I hadn't anticipated blundering into such a great deal.  But when one is granted a moment of serendipity, one simply follows along.

The next morning, I cut the roast into 4 portions and seasoned it simply before placing the pieces into my crockpot.  Then I peered into the refrigerator and concocted a sauce for it to linger in throughout the day.  I love crockpots - you come home from work, dinner is ready and waiting, and the house smells amazing as though someone has been cooking all day just for you.

The pork became tender and fragrant, practically dissolving into shreds.  I had many ideas for ways to enjoy it, but was so enticed by temptation that I didn't want to spend a lot of time preparing anything.  I gave very serious consideration to simply standing over the crockpot with a fork, but decided that this was a tad too bachelor-like to suit me.  I'm kinda prissy: I like little details like wine glasses and cloth napkins.

So I simply sauteed some fennel (I'm still on a mission to get others to like it as much as I do!) and red onion - crunchy complements to the tender pork.  A little drizzle of barbecue sauce, and a quick, hearty and delicious dinner was ready!

Saveur is seeking nominees for its 2012 Best Food Blog Awards.  If you know of anyone to nominate in one of the numerous categories, click on this link to submit your favorites ... ;)



BBQ Pork Sandwich with Fennel and Onion

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large head fennel, stems trimmed, halved, sliced thin
1 large red onion, halved, sliced thin
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
generous sprinkling of freshly ground black pepper
4 whole wheat sandwich rolls
3 cups shredded barbecue pork (see recipe below or pre-purchased)
1/3 cup barbecue sauce

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the fennel, onion, salt and pepper; saute for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and lightly caramelized.

Place the bottoms of each roll onto 4 plates.  Divide the vegetable mixture among the rolls, and divide the pork among them as well, placing it on top of the vegetables.  Drizzle the pork with barbecue sauce, then cover with the tops of the rolls.

Serve immediately.  Makes 4 sandwiches.

Crockpot Pork Loin

1 4-pound pork loin roast, cut into 4 pieces
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/3 cup barbecue sauce
1 tablespoon teriyaki sauce
1 tablespoon white wine
juice of 1 small orange
1 teaspoon harissa or other hot sauce

Season the pork with the salt, pepper, onion powder, and garlic powder.  Place 2 pieces into the crockpot.  Combine the remaining ingredients and pour half of the sauce over the pork.  Place the remaining pork into the crockpot and pour the rest of the sauce over it.  Cover and cook on "low" for a minimum of 8 hours.  Shred the meat with a fork, stirring to incorporate the liquid.